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FIRE EXTINGUISHERS
co2 works well on electrical Class "c"
halon well on fuel and electrical Class "A""B""C"
afff well on fuel Class"B"
pkp well on burning metal Class "D" fires
Remember to ground the canister when using co2 or halon (If large
extinguishers) can cause quite a static electrical charge.
Oil Sender replacement
1. I got the replacement sender from my P-car dealer in
the interests of speed, and to avoid possible screw-ups.
2. Price of the sender from the dealer was on par with most other sources
3. The new sender's P/N was 928-606-203-01. Oddly, the one I
removed was the original (date coded 1990), but was marked as an -02 version.
The only difference I could see on the new one was that the two terminals
were vertical instead of horizontal.
4. It was simple to convert the terminals on the new sender by removing
the nuts that retain them. Careful not to mix the terminals since one is
narrower than the other.
5. Removal and installation of the sender requires a 24 mm wrench that has
very thin jaws. I thinned the jaws of a 24 mm crowsfoot wrench, and used a
short 3/8" extension on a ratchet. This allows you to get at the
sender from above instead of from the side, which is almost impossible with the
engine in the car.
Access to the sender is tight, but fairly straightforward once you have a game
plan:
1. I removed the air box completely from the MAF and its rubber mountings
on the inlet tracts (total 6 fasteners).
2. I then removed the MAF from the inlet manifold (1 band clamp), and
disconnected its wiring plug.
3. With the MAF out of the way, you can get at the sender from above.
I found it helpful to get my head in there to see what was going on, but you
pretty much have to do the actual wrenching by feel.
4. Use the crowsfoot to undo the sender, but be careful because you
have only about 1/4 turn before the crowsfoot hits something or gets trapped
under it. This applies to both removal and installation.
5. Install the new sender, tighten it, and reconnect the wires.
Slide the rubber boots back over the terminals to protect them.
6. The rest, as they say is the reverse of disassembly. The worst
part of the job was re-attaching the lower-rear air box clip, especially if it
keeps falling off the back half of the air box as it did on mine.
SC Engine wiring 2 wires to the thermal time
switch in the chain cover left rear
2 wire connector to base of distributor white wire to the + side of coil
neg side goes to ground base of coil with white wire shield connector to the
warm up regulator wire connector, yellow and brown to the fan blower
clip on 2 wire to a vacuum diaphram sitting under the blower fan
blue connector to the 7th injector cold start Ohms with the thermal time switch
blue connector to the airflow sensor switch to turn on and off the fuel pump
wire to the idiot light switch..I hope you changed it to a new one and replaced
the gasket on the thermostat wire to back of the air gate on #5 intake runner
O2 Sensor info Summary follows:
- the various O2 sensors pretty much act the same way, in terms
of output signal vs input readings, however...
- there are various ceramic types, and for the three-wire
heated systems , various heater strengths ( 12W and 18W)
- for the mid 80's , 3.2L Carrera's, using DME control... you
may substitute:
Bosch 13913, 3 wire unit originally intended for Ford applications. I believe
this has an 8" lead, and you must splice -in the original Porsche
connectors ( more on splicing caveats later). Bosch 13953, similar 3 wire
unit for Fords, but with ( I believe) 16" long connectors. Bosch
15725, Bosch "universal" , with universal connector kit that avoids
certain problems compared to using generic connectors ( again, more later).
Bosch 15726... an alternative to 15725....also OK to use for 3.2L Carreras.
Bosch 15715, 4 wire .. NOT OK to use ( more on 4 wire later).
By the way , the "long" and "short" Bosch part numbers
relate as follows. The short number ( ex. 15725) is the last 4 digits of the
long number with a "1" in front of it ( long number ....
0258005725 ).
The O2 sensor works on the principle of comparison signals, and the reference
signal is "local" oxygen that is not in the exhaust stream. These
sensors are located in harsh environments, so the reference O2 signal, once
depleted within the sensor, is replenished and transmitted UNDER THE WIRE
INSULATION ...back to the computer in the car's cabin....via the engine
compartment (sealed) connector. The CAVEAT is that if you use a normal crimp
connector ( to re-use the Porsche plugs, for example) you might introduce engine
compartment "air" unknowingly at these crimped connection points... as
the reference signal . This can be bad. Furthermore, personally, I usually
use the marine-grade connectors when making electrical mods to my car. These
have a glue inside the crimp, so when you apply heat to seal the heat-shrink
crimped-ends, the glue flows to make a water-tight seal. Normally, this is good,
but in THIS case, it would seal-off the air-path back to the computer, and
compromise the air ( oxygen) reference
signal. WOW ! ... who would have thought about this ???
Bosch's generic connectors used with the generic units overcome this...by
design. Lastly, I inquired about the use of 4 -wire sensors...thinking the
additional ground would be a "good thing"...much like the upgrade we
do on the cylinder head temp sensors ( later 2 wire temp sensor versions have an
additional ground). The 3-wire O2 sensors use 2 leads for the heater
(non-critical as to hook-up... bi-directional) , and the third lead is the
actual connection / air source. The fourth wire would be the ground. My thinking
is that since the O2 sensor works as a switch between 0 and 0.1 Volts...a rather
low voltage.... an additional ground would be nice. Instead, I was advised that
this additional ground, ( for the same reason...low voltage operation) may be
unduly influenced for stray signal
noise. We were advised to stick with the 3 wire design if the car was found to
work properly with this design in the first place. The situation is slightly
different for sensor bodies grounded agains cast-iron manifolds , and possible
rusty exhaust systems, making the ground path more uncertain.
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