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MOTOR REBUILD LISTS
 | 1) What broke (if nothing did, then this is a #5 and 6 below
deal mainly, trying to replace things before they fail).
2) flywheel bolts
3) CE rings for heads
4) the little case throughbolt O rings - alas these are always mostly
destroyed. I once bought a bag of them.
5) bearings (I've never been able to bring myself to put the old
bearings, other than #8, back in despite the fact that often they look like
they have a lot of life left).
6) what I think looks like it needs replacement after teardown and
inspection - chain gears, guestimates on chain wear, inspection of rings,
measurement of ring to land clearance, condition of rocker shafts, pits or
wear on rocker arms, that kind of thing. Since I use Racewear rod
bolts, I measure them to see if they can be reused (too bad Racewear won't
sell you just a few nuts and bolts).
Otherwise I tend to reuse gaskets and O rings and hardware and even seals
unless they look like they are at the end of the line or had been leaking.
Washers which come off in two pieces are obvious candidates, but no set of
anything I know of supplies a full set of cam carrier steel spring washers.
Race motors don't have that much time on them, at least mine don't, before
something prompts going in there, so my experience is that most of this
stuff seems to be OK to reuse. If I were in the business of rebuilding
other people's motors I might well take a more conservative approach.
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| Main Bearings These are the bearings that support the crankshaft. If
your crank needs to be reground, or your case needs to be align-bored, you
may have to use what are known as undersized bearings.
Rod Bearings Rod Bearings are similar to the main bearings and need to be
replaced. These bearings can also be replaced without spitting the
case halves.
Rod Nuts and Bolts Both the rod nuts and bolts are designed to yield and
deform when they are tightened to their final torque. Reusing rod nuts
or bolts may result them becoming loose during the normal operation of the
engine. When assembling the rods on the crank during final assembly,
always use red Loctite to dress the threads of the rod bolts.
Rod Bushings These bushings wrap around the piston wrist pins. Replacement
is performed at the machine shop, where new bushings are
installed, and reamed to the correct inner diameter.
Intermediate Shaft Bearings Although the early engines (thru 1969) did not
have these bearings, they need to be replaced on the later-model
engines.
Piston Rings Piston rings should be replaced, as they are a principle wear
component on the engine.
Cam Oil Lines (left and right) Although these small lines that feed the cam
can be reused, they have a tendency to leak, especially after being
disturbed. The rubber to metal connection is the most common failure
point, and breaks down after years of vibration.
Oil Pressure Switch This tiny, five-dollar part can cause a huge headache if
it leaks. It can often become damaged if it is removed and
tightened improperly. I recommend replacing it while the engine is out
and it is readily accessible.
Chain ramps All six chain ramps are manufactured out of plastic, and can
become hard and brittle with age. Replace all of them even if they
look
like they are in perfect condition. You cannot tell if they have
become brittle or not, and you also don't usually have any idea how old they
are.
Timing chain Chains stretch over time. You need to replace your chain
in order to ensure that your chain will be tight at all times. If you
are not
splitting the case, you can install a master-link chain as a replacement
instead.
Sheet Metal Screws, Fan Housing Screws Although you can technically reuse
your older sheet metal screws, new ones are inexpensive, and improve the
looks of your finished engine.
Inner and Outer Valve Springs (12 pairs) Springs are one of the basic wear
items on the engine. Over time, they can fatigue and lose their
tension. In addition, as they get old they can sometimes break, which
can cause major engine problems.
Valve Guides (6 intake, 6 exhaust) Valve guides are one of the principle
wear points in the engine and need to be replaced. Newer
technology has produced a replacement valve guide that will last much longer
than factory originals.
Flywheel Bolts Like the rod bolts, these are designed to stretch when
tightened to their proper torque. They should only be used once.
Flywheel Pilot Bearing It's a wise idea to replace your pilot bearing while
you're working in the clutch area.
Fan Belt One of the most important parts on the engine - start your newly
rebuilt engine out right with a new fan belt.
Oil Pressure Relief Piston Springs (2) As with any spring, constant use and
age will contribute to a change in its mechanical properties. Renewing
these will ensure proper oil pressure in your engine. (replace pistons if
performing oil-pump by-pass modification)
Spark Plugs Your new engine should be treated to a set of new plugs.
Cap & Rotor Start off fresh with a new cap and rotor.
Air Filter and Fuel Filter (smog pump filter if req) Don't let any dirt from
your fuel injection enter your newly rebuilt engine.
Engine Gaskets Oil Pump and Passage O-rings (4 total) These are the four
thick o-rings that mate with the case halves and the oil pump.
Oil Strainer Gaskets (2) & Drain Plug Gasket Make sure that you use two
new oil strainer gaskets and a new drain plug gasket. Don't install
the
sump plate with the drain plug right underneath the oil pickup - this can
interfere with the pump's operation.
Flywheel Seal The flywheel seal wraps around the flywheel-end of the crank.
Install this seal before you mate the two case halves.
Pulley Seal The pulley seal fits inside the number eight nose bearing.
Number Eight O-Ring The number eight bearing has an o-ring that wraps around
it, and prevents oil from seeping out of the case.
Crankcase Breather Gasket This small paper gasket prevents oil from seeping
out past the breather cover.
Cylinder Thru-Bolt O-Rings (24) The bolts that clamp each case half together
also are exposed to the flow of oil through the case. As a result,
they can leak if they don't have these small o-rings placed under each
beveled washer. It's also a wise idea to place a small bit of black
silicone around the o-ring to sure up the seal.
Intermediate Shaft Cover O-ring or Gasket Early cars use a gasket (thru
1983), later cars use an o-ring. They both need to be replaced.
Oil Pressure Relief Valve Aluminum Gaskets (2) The 2 oil pressure relief
valves inside the engine have small circular aluminum gaskets that need to
be replaced.
Thermostat O-ring The engine thermostat is sealed to the case with an
o-ring. Replacing this o-ring is vital, as the thermostat can be very
difficult to reach once the engine is installed in the car.
Temperature Sensors Aluminum Gaskets Depending upon the year of your car,
you may have one, two, or three of these sensors. They are mounted on
the rear of the engine either to the lower right of the fan, or on either
side of the timing chain covers.
Oil Return Tube O-rings Whether or not you reuse your oil return tubes
(recommended), you need to replace the seals on each end.
Carrera Chain Tensioner O-ring (2) Don't Overlook this tiny o-ring that
seals the Carrera chain tensioner to the chain housing cover.
Carrera Chain Tensioner sealing ring (4) The small metal line that feeds the
chain tensioner requires two sealing rings per side.
Chain Housing Gaskets (4 total) There are two gaskets for each side of the
engine - one seals the chain housing cover, and the other seals the housing
to the engine case.
Cam Line Aluminum Gaskets (4) Along with the cam lines, you should replace
the o-rings that attach them to the cam towers.
Valve Cover Gaskets & Mounting Hardware A very common source of leaks,
the valve cover gaskets need to be replaced. Most kits come complete
with new mounting hardware.
Rocker Shaft Seals (24) Your engine may or may not have had these installed
when you tore it down. As added insurance, I suggest adding these
small seals at the end of each rocker shaft.
Camshaft to Chain Housing Gasket & O-ring At the interface between the
camshaft and the chain housing, there is a paper gasket that mates the chain
housing with the cam tower, and also an o-ring that seals the cam from the
inside part of the chain housing.
Piston Rings One of the major wear parts of the engine, the piston rings
need to be replaced. Each piston has three rings - two compression
rings and one oil seal ring.
Cylinder Base Gasket (6) This is the thin copper gasket that seals each
cylinder to the case.
Distributor Shaft O-ring This small seal prevents oil from seeping up past
the point where the distributor is attached to the engine.
Oil Cooler Seals (3 total) Three seals keep the oil cooler from leaking at
the interface where it is attached to the engine.
Oil Pressure Sensor Sealing Rings Depending upon which year car you have,
the oil pressure sender may be mounted in different places. Either
way, you need to replace its one or two aluminum sealing gaskets.
Cylinder Exhaust Gaskets (6) These are the small copper gaskets that mate
the heads to the heat exchangers or headers
Exhaust / Muffler Gaskets Each exhaust system uses different gaskets - make
sure that you have a complete set ready for when you reassemble the exhaust
system. It's also a wise idea to replace old, rusty exhaust hardware
as well.
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